If you’re travelling by rail along the California coast, extending as far north as Seattle, treat yourself to a ride aboard Amtrak’s luxurious Coast Starlight. In an effort to recapture the glory days of 1940′s Streamline luxury liners, Amtrak is pulling out all the stops on these double-decker Superliners, complete with gourmet dining car, first-class and couch lounge cars, standard and deluxe sleeping compartments, and enough diversions (including feature-length films, live entertainment, games for kids and adults, and a full bar) to make the overnight, 2-day trip a pleasure. All sleeping-car fares include three meals daily, prepared fresh on board with emphasis on regional flavor – wines from vintners in Washington, Oregon and California, as well as seasonal specials from along the Coast Starlight’s route.
The highlight of the journey is the exceptional scenery you’ll enjoy from the upper-level, panoramic windows of the coach and observation cars. Sweeping views of lushly green Washington State, California’s rugged coastline, rural farmland, bucolic rolling hills, sparkling beaches and charming railroad stations all provide a memorable travelogue. For travelers who believe the journey itself is as important as the destination, this excursion fits the bill perfectly.
While coach tickets are comparable to airplane fares, the surcharge for sleeping compartments adds considerably to the cost of the trip. All fares quoted are for one-way adult tickets. Children ages 2 to 15 travel for half price, and seniors 62 and older receive 15% discount. Coach fares buy assigned seating in surprising comfortable upper-level reclining chairs. Blankets and pillows are offered in the evening, and fold up leg rests help make sleeping more comfortable than you might imagine. Between San Francisco and Los Angeles, one way adult coach fare ranges from $54 to $77; between Seattle and L.A., its $102 to $170. Based on travel between Seattle and L.A., a standard sleeping compartment for two adds $255, a deluxe with private bathroom is $525, and a family sleeper for two adults and two kids (no bathroom) is $485.
It’s advisable to book several months ahead for peak periods (summer, weekends, and holidays). Since the splendid views depend on daylight, also consider carefully before travelling during the very short days of winter. For information and tickets, call Amtrak (
800/ USA-RAIL) or visit it’s special Coast Starlight Web site at www.coaststarlight.com.
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coverage varies according to the company policy and state law, but the minimum is usually at least $15,000. If you are at fault in an accident, however, you will be covered for the full replacement value of the car but not for liability. Some states allow you to buy additional liability coverage for such cases. Most rental companies will require a police report in order to process any claims you file, but your private insurer will not be notified with the accident.
BY PLANE
In addition to the major carriers listed above in “Getting There,” several smaller airlines provide service within the state, including American Eagle (
800/433-7300), Skywest (
800/453-9417), Shuttle by United (
800/241-6522), and US Air-ways Express (
800/428-4322). The round-trip fare between Los Angeles and San Francisco ranges from $79 to $200. See “Orientation” in each city’s chapter depart.
WHEN TO GO
California’s climate is so varied that it’s impossible to generalize about the state as a whole. San Francisco’s temperature marine climate means relatively mild weather year-round. In summer, temperatures rarely top 70°F (pack sweaters, even in August), and the city’s famous fog rolls in most mornings and evenings. In winter, the mercury seldom falls below freezing, and snow is almost unheard of. Because of San Francisco’s fog, summer rarely sees more than a few hot days in a row. Head a few miles inland, though, and it’s likely to be clear and hot.
The Central Coast shares San Francisco’s climate, although it gets warmer as you get farther south. Seasonal changes are less pronounced south of San Luis Obispo, where temperatures remain relatively stable year-round. The North Coast is rainier and foggier, winters tend to be mild but wet. Summers are refreshingly cool around Lake-Tahoe and in the Shasta Cascades – a perfect climate for hiking, camping and other outdoor activities and a popular escape for residents of California’s sweltering deserts and valleys who are looking to beat the heat. Skiers flock to this area for terrific snowfall from late November to early April.
Southern California – including Los Angeles and San Diego – is usually much warmer than the Bay Area, and it gets significantly more sun. This is the place to hit the beach. Even in winter, daytime thermometer readings regularly reach into the 60s and warmer. Summers can be stifling inland, but southern California’s coastal communities are always comfortable. The area’s limited rainfall is generally seen between January and mid-April, and is rarely intense enough to be more than a slight inconvenience. It’s possible to sunbathe throughout the year, but only die-hard enthusiasts and wet-suited surfers venture into the ocean in winter. The water is warmest in summer and fall, but even then, the pacific is too chilly for many.
The deserts including Palm Springs and the desert national parks, are sizzling hot in summer; temperatures regularly top 100°F. Winter is the time to visit the desert resorts (and remember, it gets surprisingly cold at night in the desert).
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The Best of California
•Pacific Groove: You can escape the Monterey crowds by heading just 2 miles west to Pacific Groove, which is known for its tranquil waterfront location and quiet, unspoiled air. Thousands of monarch butterflies flock here between October and March to make their winter home in Washington Park. See chapter11.
•Cambria: Near Hearst Castle, Cambria benefits from a constant stream of visitors, who bring the right amount of sophistication to this picturesque coastal town. Moonstone Beach holds a string of seaside lodges; farther north are dozens of sunbathing elephant seals, while the village itself is filled with charming B & Bs, artist’ studios and galleries, and friendly shop. See Chapter 12.
•Ojai: When Hollywood needed a Shangri-La for the movie Lost Horizon, they drove north to idyllic Ojai Valley, an unspoiled hideaway of Eucalyptus groves and small ranches warmly nestled among soft, green hills. Ojai is the amiable village at the valleys heart. It’s a mecca for artists, free spirits, and weary city folk in need of restful weekend in the country. See Chapter 12.
•Ventura: This charming mission town is filled with colorful Victorians. It’s also home to a pleasantly eclectic old Main Street lined with thrift and antiques shops, used-record stores, friendly diners, and even old-time saloons operating beneath broken-down, second story hotels. Don’t miss the historic mission on its landscaped plaza, and the deco era Greek Revival San Buenaventura City Hall looming over the town, bedecked with smiling stone faces of the founding Franciscan friars. See chapter 12.
• Avalon: This crescent-shaped hamlet on idyllic Santa Catalina island may welcome the summer influx of city-savvy tourist, but off-season visitors get to see a close-knit community that cherishes its isolation. Phone numbers are given in four digits here (the entire island shares a single exchange), and many residents rarely bother travelling to the mainland. There are very few cars, lots of cozy cafes and friendly pubs, a charming art-deco history, and the sparkling blue Pacific everywhere you look – you might not want to leave, either!. See chapter 14.
•Julian: This old mining town in the Cuyamaca Mountains near San Diego is well known today for it’s wildflower fields, the apple harvest, and tasty flavored breads from Dudley’s Bakery. There’s plenty of pioneer history here, too, including a local-history museum, a circa-1888 schoolhouse, and mining demonstrations. A smattering of antique shops, plenty of barbeque, and an old-fashioned soda fountain operating since 1886 round out the experience. See chapter 16.
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BEST FAMILY-VACATION EXPERIENCES
•San Francisco: The city by the bay is filled with unexpected pleasures for every member of the family. Ride the cable cars that “climb halfway the stars” and visit the Exploratorium, the California Academy of Sciences (which includes the Steinhart Aquarium), the zoo, the ships at the National Maritime Museum, Golden Gate Park, and much more. See chapter 4.
•Lake Tahoe: California’s Disneyland of outdoor adventure, Lake Tahoe has loads of family-fun things to do. Skiing, snowboarding, hiking, tobogganing, swimming, fishing, boating, water skiing, mountain biking – the list is nearly endless. Even the casinos cater to kids while mom and pop play the slots. See chapter 8.
•Yosemite National Park: Camping or staying in a cabin in Yosemite is a premier family attraction in California. Sites are scattered over 17 different campgrounds, and the rugged beauty of Sierra Nevada surrounds you. During the day, the family calendar is packed with hiking, bicycling, white-water rafting, and even mountaineering to rugged, snowy peaks. See chapter 9.
Fortuna Cooks
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